Dandy Style at Manchester Art Gallery Maja Lorkowska, Exhibitions Editor Last Updated 15 December 2022 Photograph Ashley Verse Like the Parisians who, when they adopted dandyism and Anglomania in 1800, were confused about precisely what they were copying, the fashion designers’ interpretation of the English dandy look is subject to a conveniently loose brief. ‘Was the dandy an understated gentleman who sprang from nowhere and established himself as the social equal of princes – like Beau Brummel? Or was he the aristocratic, horsey sportsman, as Balzac indicated in his Treatise on the Elegant Life. Was he the ‘fatal man’ of English Romanticism?’ asked Valerie Steele in her book, Paris Fashion. From Oscar Wilde’s penchant for extravagance, to the musicians of today seen through the lens of the best photographers, this show has something for everyone, whatever your style. In the metaphysical phase of dandyism, the poet Charles Baudelaire defined the dandy as a man who elevates aesthetics to a religion. That the dandy is an existential reproach of the conformity of the middle-class man, because "dandyism, in certain respects, comes close to spirituality and to stoicism" as an approach to living daily life. [5] That "these beings, have no other status, but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in their own persons, of satisfying their passions, of feeling and thinking . . . [because] Dandyism is a form of Romanticism. Contrary to what many thoughtless people seem to believe, dandyism is not even an excessive delight in clothes and material elegance. For the perfect dandy, these [material] things are no more than the symbol of the aristocratic superiority of mind." [6]

Regarding the social function of the dandy in a stratified society, like the British writer Carlyle, in Sartor Resartus, the French poet Baudelaire said that dandies have "no profession other than elegance . . . no other [social] status, but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in their own persons. . . . The dandy must aspire to be sublime without interruption; he must live and sleep before a mirror." Likewise, French intellectuals investigated the sociology of the dandies ( flâneurs) who strolled Parisian boulevards; in the essay " On Dandyism and George Brummell" (1845) Jules Amédée Barbey d'Aurevilly analysed the personal and social career of Beau Brummell as a man-about-town who arbitrated what was fashionable and what was unfashionable in polite society. [21]The dandy creates his own unity by aesthetic means. But it is an aesthetic of negation. To live and die before a mirror: that, according to Baudelaire, was the dandy's slogan. It is indeed a coherent slogan. The dandy is, by occupation, always in opposition [to society]. He can only exist by defiance . . . The dandy, therefore, is always compelled to astonish. Singularity is his vocation, excess his way to perfection. Perpetually incomplete, always on the fringe of things, he compels others to create him, while denying their values. He plays at life because he is unable to live [life]. [23]

Charles Pierre Baudelaire – A French Poet was deeply interested in Dandyism and various times he wrote about it. According to him, “no profession other than elegance… no other status, but that of cultivating the idea of beauty in their own persons… The dandy must aspire to be sublime without interruption; he must live and sleep before a mirror.” Meinhold, Roman. "The Ideal-Typical Incarnation of Fashion: The Dandy as. . . .", essay in Fashion Myths: A Cultural Critique. Bielefeld, Germany: transcript, 2014. pp. 111–125. books.google.com/books?id=1XWiBQAAQBAJ ISBN 9783839424377 Nicolay, Claire. Origins and Reception of Regency Dandyism: Brummell to Baudelaire. PhD diss., Loyola U of Chicago, 1998.It may no longer be the preserve of eccentrics, but dandyism will never follow a well-trodden path either. Former member of Andy Warhol’s Factory, Glenn O’Brien, argues in I Am Dandy: “A man who steps out of uniform is a hero, in his own way. You can only be a hero in your own way.” Kelly, Ian (2006). Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style. New York: Free Press. ISBN 9780743270892. Dandyism was then inherited by the Russians and with a blink of an eye, the ideology was spread all over the world. Historical Example of Dandies Manchester Art Gallery is currently planning a long-projected substantial exhibition ( Dandy Style) focusing on men’s fashion and image over the last 250 years. It will feature selections from our outstanding menswear and portraiture collections. The show will inaugurate our new dedicated first floor Fashion Gallery whilst also incorporating another major gallery area on the second floor. Barbey d'Aurevilly, Jules. Of Dandyism and of George Brummell. Translated by Douglas Ainslie. New York: PAJ Publications, 1988.

Details, details, details. That’s what Dandy style is all about. Your accessories will not only vamp up your foundation (the suit), but will make a statement about you and your personality. Again, less is more here. A Dandy never over-accessorizes – he always has it just right. Dandyism is about more than your clothing; the dandy gentleman also pays careful attention to his grooming and is immaculate in appearance. A dandy gentleman would never be caught with unkempt hair or an untrimmed beard; he will maintain his hair cut, color and style as well as any facial hair. This autumn, Manchester Art Gallery is all about cloth, cut and pattern with the new exhibition Dandy Style, focusing on men’s style through the ages, from the 18th century to the present day. Set in the brand new dedicated Fashion Gallery, expect fine fabrics, paintings and photographs all celebrating menswear. This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sourcesin this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. ( May 2008) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message) Dandy Style is a new exhibition at Manchester Art Gallery, marking the opening of the institution’s new dedicated fashion gallery.The exhibition presents historical fashion alongside contemporary work. These displays aim to draw similarities between styles across history and highlight how often fashion trends repeat. The hallmark of dandy fashion is impeccable tailoring. While the overall style encompasses a range of garments suitable for a variety of occasions, they are all well-cut and show remarkable attention to detail. If it looks good and fits well, then it’s acceptable; anything with poor tailoring or slipshod finishing is out. Tailoring is so vital to a dandy because his clothes are an expression of his self; how he wears these garments conveys to the world that he takes pride in his appearance and, by extension, his own person. He has confidence and accordingly his garments should be spot-on to match. Dandyism was then rooted in Great Britain by George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, a men’s fashion arbiter. Dandy style is not just about your clothes; it’s about your general appearance. Therefore, grooming plays an essential role and a true Dandy wouldn’t be caught dead looking unkempt or with an untrimmed beard. His cut, color and style will always be maintained; presenting himself as immaculate in appearance. Mixing the historic with the contemporary, the exhibition highlights a range of examples from Manchester’s collections presented in two main sections: Tailored Dandy and Decorated Dandy.