Quick Bluing Solution (250 mL) - Brush and Immersion Application - Gun Bluing

Product Information

I have rust blued four 1911's over the past five years, and the finish on all of them has held up very well.

Fed up with the usual proprietary cold blue offerings and their lack lustre results I ventured forth onto the Internet and picked out the simplest recipe for home brew hot bluing that I could find. When you boil off your rusted barrels, do you wait for the water to boil and then immerse the barrels or immerse the barrels in the water and then bring to the boil? Mix solutions of ammonium nitrate and sodium hydroxide very slowly to avoid the mixture boiling over the top of the treatment vessel.

Where possible, wet-or-dry sandpaper (auto supply) or belts work better than polishing compounds, most of which have some organics in the binder that makes post-polish metal cleaning more difficult. The straightforward application process minimizes the learning curve and ensures that anyone can effectively use Ballistol Quick Blueing without extensive experience or specialized tools. All information and data contained in this area, are to be considered private and confidential and is therefore prohibited the dissemination and publication of these data and information to third parties. Each thermometer is carefully sealed, calibrated, and double-checked for accuracy to prevent the common bluing failures associated with inferior thermometers.

You shall therefore keep confidential all information and data coming to its attention during the consultation, to keep them with security measures and a degree of care no less than those accorded to its own confidential information.The application involves heating the part to 150°-200° F, applying the solution, and then carding with a soft wire wheel or fine steel wool. Bluing may be applied by immersing steel parts in a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and water heated to the boiling point, 275–310 °F (135–154 °C) depending on the recipe. You must not make any discharge to surface water or groundwater without consulting your environmental regulator. Even though fire bluing makes a shiny finish, it’s not as durable as hot bluing, since it creates a patina color with wear.

However, cold-bluing isn’t as durable as hot-bluing because friction against fabrics or other materials can rub it off. I assume that Potassium nitrate may do the same job as I feel it is Mr John Gallatly's instruction about soaking the parts in old motor oil and a dewatering oil caught my attention and I need to ask if by "old" motor oil, he means used oil?If the material that you are handling has hazardous properties, you may need to deal with it as hazardous/special waste. g. corrosive priming residual salts) will also make the rust blue 'hard to take', caustic, clean rinse, pickling, clear rinse before final polishing seems to get most of this out (this on a C-96 Mauser with a badly deteriorated bore, the last round of Chinese exports). After you have reached the finish you require or the metal becomes reluctant to take any more rust, it must be boiled again in a soda solution to stop the rusting, given a final carding, and then run up to a high temperature in clean boiling water, allowed to flash dry and placed in a tank containing a 50/50 mix of old engine oil and dewatering oil overnight, removed and allowed to drain to clear rib breather vents, etc.

Also, degrease your steel wool thoroughly before starting - new steel wool has quite a bit of oil in it, believe it or not. A. Try any recipe for black finish on steel; after that you can use phosphating and then clearcoat it. I read the Scottsman's recipe for Niedner solution and investigated the cost of nitric acid and was blown away by the hazmat fees.After the degreasing, flush or scrub the metal in very hot water to remove any residual chemicals and allow to cool thoroughly before applying the fist coat of solution with a clean swab, do not swamp it, merely moisten. WHEN THERE IS A GOOD DENSE COAT OF FINE RED RUST ON EVERYTHING, CARD OR BRUSH IT DOWN TO THE BLUE WITH A FAIRLY STIFF MOTOR DRIVEN WIRE WHEEL. I was hoping that with the help of the Internet I could discover the original factory records of DWM and Mauser, but no luck. A. I am the gunsmith for a company in my hometown and black approximately 60 to 80 sets of barrels and/or rifles annually. As well as these rules, Primers and Ammunition are also licensable, meaning that you must hold a Section 1 Firearms Certificate or Section 2 Shotgun Certificate (dependant on the primers or ammunition you purchase).